Ascent to Khan-Tengri peak 6995 m. with TopAsia Travel. Mountaineering.

History of Khan-Tengry peak discovering

In 1857 the Russian traveler Piotr Petrovich Semenov Tian-Shansky for the first time saw a sharp-pointed pyramid of Khan Tengri from one of the passes of Terskey Ala-Too. Not paying attention to the arguments of the local guides to the fact that the peak was known as Kan-Too among the local Kyrgyz, and among Kazakhs, as Kahn-Tau (“Blood Mountain”, because of the burning red color it adopts at sunset), PP Semenov called the peak - Khan-Tengri and placed it in the center of the Tien Shan mountain range. However, in 1895 the famous Swedish traveler Sven Hedin was the first European who measured the height of the real Khan Tengri peak (7,320 m - almost correct), which was located on Savabtsi or Kokshaal-Too ridge. PP Semenov’s description of Khan-Tengri mountaineering made the rounds and caught the attention of the famous German mountaineer and geographer Gottfried Merzbacher who was very intrigued and decided to go and find the legendary peak.

Mountaineering becomes an adventure. And as a result in 1902 a German geographer with Tyrolean guides for the first time managed to reach the foothills of Kan-Too (Semenov’s Khan-Tengri). When he had passed the Inylchek glacier he found out that the pyramid was located not at the site of the main ridge (the peak Shater (6700 m) was dominated there) but to the west of it, on the Tengri-Tag range. He defined the height of it as 7,200 m and made a detailed map. In the Merzbacher’s collection, that is stored in the library of the German Society of climbing (DAV) in Munich, we can observe some beautiful photos of Khan Tengri from the north and south. And the boundary, which according to the Kashgar Protocol of 1882 passed through the highest peak Khan Tengri, "moved” further for 12 km to the west along the ridge Tengri-Tag.

But the story of "great discoveries" continues. In 1943, the Soviet topographers, 50 years after Sven Hedin,  reached Khan-Tengri, but named it  as Victory Peak (7,439 m). Under this name, the peak became world known. And what about the boundary?

Soviet topographers realized the error of Semenov. So they “returned” the border on their maps to the main ridge (the peak Shater) and made along the meridional ridge, that was connecting Narynkol and Victory peak.

The Chinese always knew the location of the real Khan-Tengri (Soviet Victory) - in the ridge Savabtsi; however they decided to use the error of Semenov-Tian-Shansky. So they made the boundary through Semenov’s Khan Tengri, thus attributing to themselves the upper part of the glacier Inylchek. The authority of PP Semenov Tian-Shansky in science is great, but one of his biggest mistakes, that was  made in the XIX century, today constitute a precedent - one of the disputed areas on the Chinese-Kyrgyz border.

The first confirmed successful ascent was made in 1931, by a Ukrainian team - M. Pogrebetsky, B. Turin and F. Zauber. It took two years before they outlined the most logical rout of ascent. They walked along the Inylchek glacier to the peak Chapaev, then along the western ridge of Khan-Tengri and further up along the south-western slope.  September 11, all three climbers reached the summit!

In the Soviet period, even local mountaineering needed special permissions and access for foreigners was totally prohibited. But since the late 80’s early 90’s - the area became more accessible to the public and each year dozens of climbers conquer the Peak!

Climate of Central Tien Shan

Mountaineering conditions in the region of Central Tien Shan is difficult, due to its very severe climate caused by tremendous glaciers, high peaks and unstable weather. The best period for mountaineering - July and August, although in September long periods of stable weather are also marked. In another period there is a lot of snow there and already in the middle of September the cold weather with strong winds comes.

Route. Ascent tactics to Khan-Tengry peak

We recommend making an ascent by the classic route from the glacier Semenov by the southwestern ridge. For a successful mountaineering it is necessary to have experience of climbing in the mountains, the ability to use the climbing rope, to pass snow, rock and ice slopes. The summit of the mountain is located at the altitude of about seven thousand meters above sea level and to stay at such altitude requires a lot of efforts. We highly recommend having a tactic of gradual acclimatization and fixed timetable during the mountaineering. That will increase the security of the route. Technically difficult parts of the rout are worked up beforehand. Before starting the ascent it is necessary to spend a couple of days in the base camp, so we can get used to the altitude, gear, climbing area. You shouldn’t be too physical active, but it is also important not to stay in a tent for a long time. During the mountaineering you should constantly move.

The route starts from the Base Camp (BC) that is located on the glacier Inylchek at an altitude of 4000 m. There are tents for accommodation, dining room, kitchen, sauna, electricity and other facilities in the BC. We can leave the BC in the afternoon, so in 2-2, 5 hours you reach Camp 1 (4200 m). It is possible to spend night on the moraine. The next day it is necessary to start early in the morning (3-4 hours a.m.) so we can pass a dangerous area on the glacier Semenovski (4300 to 5100 m). There is a danger of falling under the ice collapse on the slope of the peak Chapaev; thus passing this dangerous area should be quick and early in the morning. On this day, it is also desirable to achieve the Semenovski glacier at an altitude of 5300-5400 m. It is possible to dig a snow cave there or to sleep in tents. The next day there will be the ascent on the saddle between Khan-Tengri peak and peak Chapaev (5,900 m). It is also advisable to dig a snow cave there and to examine visually the further route. The next day we can descent. The descent is very fast and after 4-5 hours you will be in the BC.

After acclimatizational ascent there should be rest for a couple of days. This time should be devoted to the preparation of equipment and consultation on the route.

Then there will be the ascent. To the saddle at 5900m (Camp 3) we move on the same schedule as the first time. Then we go to camp 4 at 6400 m. The next day we can climb the summit and descend to camp 3.

The route goes on the right rocky slope of the south-western ridge to an altitude of 6700m. On the slope steep rises occur. The average slope of the route is about 40 degrees. At an altitude of 6700 m there will be traverse right towards the narrow cave. Then we go up the rocks to a rocky wall the height of which is 20 m. Then there will be gradual ascent to the summit. At the altitude from 6700 up to 6900 the slope increases. The possible place for staying overnight is at an altitude 6400 - 6700 m. Most of the route is set out with fixed ropes. From 6900 to the summit the path is not too steep.  Descent goes on the way of the ascent.

Ascent program:

Day 1. Arrival in Bishkek, accommodation in a hotel.
Day 2. Drive Bishkek - Karkara (460 km), accommodation at the Camp.
Day 3. Fly by helicopter to Base Camp on the glacier Inylchek. Day of rest, acclimatization and familiarization.
Day 4. Acclimatization and preparation for ascent.
Day 5. Ascent to the Camp 1 (4200m). 

Day 6.Ascent to the  Camp 2 (5300m).
Day 7.Ascent to the Camp 3 (5900m).
Day 8. Descent to the  Base Camp.
Day 9. Free day.
Day 10. Day of preparation.
Day 11. Camp 1 (4200m).
Day 12. Camp 2 (5300m).
Day 13. Camp 3 (5900m).
Day 14. Camp 4 (6400m).
Day 15. Day of ascent of Khan -Tengri. Descent to Camp 3 (5900m).
Day 16. Descent to the base camp.
Days 17 and 18. Additional days in case of bad weather.
Day 19. Helicopter flight to Camp Karkara and drive to Lake Issyk- Kul. Accommodation in hotel.
Day 20. Transfer to Bishkek.
Day 21. Transfer to the airport. Departure.

The quotation:  

€ 1400 per person

Single supplement in the hotels – € 40

The price includes:

• All group transfers according to the program;
• Hotel accommodation in Bishkek and Issyk-kul (B&B);
• Accommodation in tents in Karkara, 1 night in BC with full board;
• Helicopter flights from Karkara to BC;
• Lunch on the road of Bishkek – Karkara;
• Shower, sauna, toilet and storage place in BC;
• Consultations on the route;
• Consultancy of doctor;
• Ecological fee;
• The usage of long-distance radio telecommunication service;
• The usage of ultra-short wave radios;
• Permits in the area of border control.

The price does not include:

A guide to the top, meals during the ascent, the cost of visas, personal expenses, usage of the satellite phone, gas canisters, porters.

Additional services:
Foodstuff
Rent of an altitude tent - € 50
Gas cylinders - € 5/bottle
Satellite phone – € 3/min.

Prices for guides service for 2012

Group 1 person - € 1200
Group 2 persons - € 750 per person.
Group 3 persons - € 600 per person.

Prices for porters service for 2012
BC-Camp 1: € 2/kg
Camp 1-Camp 2: € 8/kg
Camp 2-Camp 3: € 16/kg

Helicopter flights for season 2012:

July - 15, 19, 22, 26, 29

August - 2, 5, 8, 11, 16, 19, 22, 25, 30

More info you can get from Gleb Sokolov from Russia