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Besteigung des Pik Khan Tengri. PDF Drucken

Pik Khan Tengri von Sueden

History of Khan-Tengry peak discovering
The first confirmed successful ascent was made in 1931, by a Ukrainian team - M. Pogrebetsky, B. Turin and F. Zauber. It took two years before they outlined the most logical rout of ascent. They walked along the Inylchek glacier to the peak Chapaev, then along the western ridge of Khan-Tengri and further up along the south-western slope. September 11, all three climbers reached the summit!
In the Soviet period, even local mountaineering needed special permissions and access for foreigners was totally prohibited. But since the late 80’s early 90’s - the area became more accessible to the public and each year dozens of climbers conquer the Peak!

Climate of Central Tien Shan
Mountaineering conditions in the region of Central Tien Shan is difficult, due to its very severe climate caused by tremendous glaciers, high peaks and unstable weather. The best period for mountaineering - July and August, although in September long periods of stable weather are also marked. In another period there i s a lot of snow there and already in the middle of September the cold weather with strong winds comes.

Ascent program:
Day 1. Arrival in Bishkek, accommodation in a hotel.
Day 2. Drive Bishkek – Karakol town (400 km), accommodation at the guesthouse.
Day 3. Drive to Inylchek valley to the Camp ABC.
Days 4-5. Fly by helicopter to Base Camp on the glacier Inylchek. Day of rest, acclimatization and familiarization.
Day 6. Ascent to the Camp 1 (4200m).
Day 7.Ascent to the Camp 2 (5300m).
Day 8.Ascent to the Camp 3 (5900m).
Day 9. Descent to the Base Camp.
Day 10. Free day.
Day 11. Day of preparation.
Day 12. Camp 1 (4200m).
Day 13. Camp 2 (5300m).
Day 14. Camp 3 (5900m).
Day 15. Camp 4 (6400m).
Day 16. Day of ascent of Khan -Tengri. Descent to Camp 3 (5900m).
Day 17. Descent to the base camp.
Day 18. Additional day in case of bad weather.
Day 19. Helicopter flight to Camp Karkara and drive to Lake Issyk- Kul. Accommodation in hotel.
Day 20. Transfer to Bishkek.
Day 21. Transfer to the airport. Departure.



The price includes:
-    All group transfers according to the program;
-    Hotel accommodation in Bishkek and Issyk-kul (B&B);
-    Accommodation in tents in Karkara, 1 night in BC with full board;
-    Helicopter flights from Maidaadyr to BC and back;
-    Lunch on the road of Bishkek – Karakol;
-    Shower, sauna, toilet and storage place in BC;
-    Consultations on the route;
-    Consultancy of doctor;
-    Ecological fee;
-    The usage of long-distance radio telecommunication service;
-    The usage of ultra-short wave radios;
-    Permits in the area of border control.

The price does not include:
A guide to the top, meals during the ascent, the cost of visas, personal expenses, usage of the satellite phone, gas canisters, porters.