Main touristic attractions in Uzbekistan: Bukhara, Samarkand, Khiva, Urgench, Tashkent

Bukhara

Bukhara is the city, which has been growing constantly at one and the same place beginning from the IVth century BC. Bukhara preserves treasures of architecture of the pre-Mongol period. The total number of monuments is above 400. Bukhara is regarded the largest open-air museum in Central Asia.

"Bukhara-I-Sharif" - "Noble", "Holy" is one of the numerous epithets that were bestowed on this ancient city.
The word Bukhara originates in Sanskrit from the word "vikhara", meaning monastery. It is said to have had the best of monastic establishments during its Buddhist days.

Narshaki wrote "The History of Bukhara" in the 10th century. It gave rise to a legend, which names Siavush to be the founder of Bukhara. Siavush, a son of a Persian Shah murdered by Afrosiab, a king of Turan, was worshipped in antiquity as a god Archaeological researches and evidences of ancient authors testify that it existed already in the 5th millennium BC, when the tribes of hunters and fishermen came to live in the lower reaches of the Zerafshan river. In later history, the territory of Bukhara was a part of Achaemenid Persia, Alexander the Great Empire, the Seleucid domain, the Greek-Bactrian kingdom, the Kushan empire and the Ephtalites state, the Turkic kaganate, the Arabic caliphate, the empires of Jenghis Khan and Timurids, the Shaybanid state.

The much known history of Bukhara begins with the arrival of Arabs in the 8th century AD. After the settling of Arabs and subsequent conversion of its indigenous population to Islam Bukhara took a new turn when the local dynasties were established. During the rule of Samanids in the 9th century it was the best time for Bukhara. Later Bukhara fell to the Karakhanids and then to the rule of Khorezmshahs that is regarded as the era of great merits in arts and crafts. This was the time when great scholars like Avicenna, Al-Beruni and Narshaki contributed to the advancement of sciences and literature. The invasion of Genghis Khan`s Mongol hordes greatly destroyed the city and all aspects of life were disturbed for a long time. It was only during the later Genghisids and the Timurid dynasty that the city once again raised to its prominence. After a long series of wars and battles between the later Timurids in the XVIth century it became the place of reign of the Shaybanids, which lasted for a long time.

Under the Astarkhanid dynasty (XVIIth century), the Silk Road`s decline slowly pushed Bukhara out of the mainstream.In 1740 the Persian King Nadir Shah conquered Bukhara. He left a local lord Muhammad Rahim as a governor in Bukhara. The governor proclaimed himself emir and founded the dynasty of Mangits. It was the darkest period in the history of Bukhara. This dynasty ruled up to 1920 until the Bolsheviks came. The constant decay in ruling systems of Bukhara invited once again the foreign dominance with the result that the last emir had to run for his life`s sake to the neighbouring country.

In 60-70s of the 19th century Russia conquered Bukhara. Emir`s army was weak and was not ready to fight against the Russians. In 1868 the army of Bukhara was defeated. Due to emir`s desire, a peaceful treaty was signed, and Bukharan Khanate became the vassalage of Russia.

In 1920 Red Army troops captured Bukhara, the Bukhara People`s Republic was proclaimed and it was absorbed in 1924 into the newly created Uzbek Soviet Socialist Republic.

What you can see:

The Ark Citadel. This Royal town-within-a-town is the home of the rulers of Bukhara for over a millennium. The Ark is as old as Bukhara itself. The fortress was the focus around which the medieval town developed.
Bolo-Khauz Mosque (1712), opposite the Ark, it was the emir`s official place of worship. The painted porch, supported by 20 columns was added in 1917.

The architectural ensemble of Poi-Kalon (Pedestal of the Great), the religious heart of Holy Bukhara, consists of the Kalon Minaret, Kalon Mosque and Mir-i-Arab Madrasah.

The Kalon Minaret (1127) is one of the defining symbols of Bukhara. The minaret is 9 metres in diameter at the foundation and grows slightly narrower at its 46-metre height. The minaret is exquisite not only in its magnificence but also for ornamental brickwork.

The Kalon Mosque is the biggest Friday mosque in Bukhara for 10.000 people, built in the 16th century on the site of an earlier mosque destroyed by Genghis Khan.

The Mir-I-Arab Madrasah (16th century) was built by Ubaidullah Khan (Shaybanid ruler) and named for a 16th century well-known Sheikh Abdulla Jemeny. It was Central Asia`s only functioning madrasah in Soviet times and the most prestigious educational establishment for centuries.

Covered Bazaars (trading city`s cupolas - of the XV-XVIth centuries) were among dozens of specialised bazaars in the town built at the junction of caravan routes. Four major cupolas of the building of merchants have survived in Bukhara. Toki-Sarafon (cupola of moneychangers), Toki-Telpak Furushon (cupola of the sellers of hats), Toki-Zargaron (cupola of jewellers), Abdullakhan Tim (a centre of silk sales).

The Ulugbek Madrasah (1417) is one of the three madrasahs built in Uzbekistan by Timur`s grandson Ulugbek. Everything in it is characteristic of Ulugbek architecture: clarity of the design, excellent proportions and understated decorative details.

The Abdul Aziz Khan Madrasah is located opposite the Ulugbek Madrasah. The Astrakhanid Ruler of the same name began its construction in 1652, but the decoration left unfinished when he was driven away by the first of the Mangit emirs.

Magoki-Attori Mosque (12-16th centuries) is one of the last remnants of a symbolic architecture of various periods and religions. Its cupolas are slightly above the level of ground because the building is deeply stuck in the centuries - old cultural layers. Under this mosque archaeologists found the bits of a 5th century Zoroastrian temple wrecked by the Arabs, and an earlier Buddhist temple.

Lyabi-Khauz Ensemble is the heart of Bukhara. Lyabi-Khauz Ensemble shows that the Bukharan architectural traditions remain alive. A high-ranking official named Nadir Divan-Begi built it in 1620 and some parts of it are still well preserved - Nadir Divan-Begi Madrasah (1622), Nadir Divan-Begi Khonako (1620) and Kukeldash Madrasah (1568-1569).

Khiva

 In the north-western part of Uzbekistan, on the left bank of the Amu-Darya River, in the transition zone between the sultry deserts of Karakum and Kyzylkum lie the lands of ancient Khorezm oasis. Khiva is an ancient city in the lower reaches of the Amu-Darya River. Khorezm`s agriculture and settlements go back to four, perhaps six, millennia. So, Khiva may be very old. The legend holds that it was founded when biblical Shem, the son of Noah, discovered a well here; the people called it Kheivak, from which the name Khiva is said to have originated. But the archaeological data proves that the city already existed as early as the 6th -8th century. First it appeared as a stopping place and later as a caravan-saroi on the ancient trade road to the Caspian Sea and the Volga River. But while Khorezm prospered on and off from the Xth to the XIVth centuries, its capital was at old Urgench (Kunya-Urgench). The changing moods of the Amu-Darya compelled the population of Kunya-Urgench to move to a more safer and habitable place and there was none but Khiva. In the 14th century it appeared prominent among the towns of Khorezm. It became the capital of Khorezm in the 16th century (the later more appropriately known as the Khanate of Khiva).

For a very long time the local rulers were fighting against the tribal incursions from the neighbouring lands. The early years of the Khanate were racked by instability, infighting and invasion. In 1740 Khiva was wrecked by Nadir Shah, and Khorezm became for a while a northern outpost of the Persian Empire. By the end of the 18th century it began taking a small share in the growing trade between Russia and the Bukhara and Kokand Khanates. Khiva had a slave market, the biggest in Central Asia. At the beginning of the 19th century Khiva developed into a prominent cultural centre.

The Khanate spread from the Aral Sea to Merv. Expansionist Russian policy always threatened the very existence of Khiva, which was finally taken over in 1873. The enfeebled Khanate struggled on. However, the Khanate was fast approaching the end of its life and in 1920 the "Khorezm People`s Republic" was proclaimed in its place. In 1922 the region gained promotion to a Soviet Republic and in 1924 joined the Soviet Union as a part of Uzbek Soviet Socialist Republic.

 The Ichan Kala - the heart of the city where most architectural and historical monuments are located. It is so-called inner city surrounded by a wall 2.2 km long. Ichan Kala with tall minarets and domed roofs surrounded by dwelling buildings represents rich traditions of popular oriental architecture: monumental shapes, fine carved pillars, doors and ceilings, original patterns, and bright and colourful majolica.

 Mohammed Amin Khan Madrasah - is the biggest seminary of the city, erected in 1852-1855. Now it is a guesthouse for tourists.

 The Kalta Minor or Short Minaret - was built in 1852 under one of the most ambitious projects of the ruling khan. It was intended to be the tallest minaret in the Islamic world, but abandoned in the wake of the khan`s death at 26 metres.

Kunya Ark - is the fortified citadel at the centre of the city, also the residence of the rulers of Khiva, a city within a city, first built in the 12th century by Oq Shish-Bobo, and then expanded by the khans in the 17th century. Archaeologists have conducted excavations on a one-hectare area under the citadel and found out that this territory had been settled on since the time of Khiva`s foundation. Kunya Ark comprises living quarters, a mosque, the palace of the khan, the residence of his harem, the mint, the arsenal, the stables and the jail.

Mohammed Rakhim Khan Madrasah (1871)

The Tomb of Sayid Allauddin - is the most ancient architectural monument of Khiva, Mongol-era 14th-century tomb of one of the Sufi masters. Pakhlavan Mahmud Mausoleum - is the most revered mausoleum of the city. Pakhlavan Mahmud, the Hercules of the East, a famous wrestler, poet, philosopher and Khiva`s saints patron. His tomb (1326) has some of Khiva`s loveliest tilework.

Shir Gazi Khan Madrasah - was erected in 1718-1720 by 5000 Persian slaves brought to Khiva from Meshed. The inscription above the entrance reads: I accept death at the hands of slaves. The slaves were promised freedom but soon it became clear that they would not live to see the end of the work. They killed the khan and even succeeded in capturing the city`s citadel.

The Islam Khodja Madrasah and Minaret - are the newest monuments of Khiva, both built in 1910. The minaret, 45 metres tall, is a stately, tapering pillar belted with sixteen decorative friezes. The madrasah houses Khiva`s best museum - the museum of handicrafts: fine wood carving, hand embroidery, carpets, household utensils, pottery, work, traditional Uzbek clothes are on display.

Juma Mosque - Friday mosque, once the khanate`s religious heart has 213 columns. The oldest columns are from the original 10th century mosque; other 17 columns are of the 11th-12th centuries origin. The most recent mosque was built in 1788.

Tash Khauli (Harem) - was erected by Allakuli Khan between 1832 and 1841. It is the most beautiful architectural decoration of the city: ceramic tiles, carved marble, painted wood. It contains 163 rooms and 3 courtyards, the biggest courtyard being the Harem.

Around Urgench

Urgench is the capital of Khorezm province, 450 km northwest of Bukhara across the Kyzylkum desert. It`s located between the Amu-Darya River (in the delta of the river) and on the border with Turkmenistan. The population is 130,000 people. Urgench is mainly a home for most tourists, somewhere to stay before going to Khiva, 35 km southwest.

The Amu-Darya delta, stretching from southeast of Urgench to the Aral Sea, has been inhabited for millennia and it was regarded an important oasis. Whenever irrigation canals were destroyed, stranded cities withered and died. The ruins of many Khorezmian towns and forts, some well over two thousand years old, still stand to the east and north of Urgench.

Toprak-Kala is 2000-years-old ruined city fortress grew up around the first century BC and became the capital of the Khorezm in the 3rd and 4th centuries. It was a fort and temple complex of the rulers estate with high walls, round towers and numerous rooms and halls. The city was abandoned in the 6th century, when Turkic invaders upset the irrigation system.

Koi Krylgan Kala (30 km Southwest of Toprak Kala) is a circular fort, temple and observatory complex dating from the 4th century.

Ayaz Kala (60 km far from Toprak Kala) - is an impressive mud-walled hilltop fortress of the 6th and 7th centuries.

Kyrk Kyz-Kala - is a fortress dating from about the 4th century.

Guldursan Kala - is a fortress with huge city walls (12th century) destroyed by the Mongol invasion in 1221. 

Get in

Khiva is quite far away from other two Ancient cities - Samarkand and Bukhara (about 450 km from Bukhara). Usually people travel first to Urgench (capital Khorezm region) and then take a taxi to Khiva. Taxi cost should be around 3000-5000 sum (2.20-3.5$) per person. Easiest way getting to Urgench is by train or by plane. Plane ticket from Tashkent costs around 105000 sum (as of July 2008), train ticket depends on class - first class it is 41000 sum, second class 25000 sum and third class 16000 sum. Taking first or second class should be considered, as trip takes around 19 hours. It is possible to get there by bus or by taxi, but it is less comfortable, as roads are not of good quality.

Samarkand

The site of Samarkand was settled about 2000 BC. In times of old the city was also known as Afrosiab, and also Maracanda by the Greeks. The city was the capital of Sogdiana, an ancient Persian province, and was conquered by Alexander the Great in 329 BC. It subsequently grew as a trade center on the Silk Road, the great trading route between China and the Mediterranean region. In the early 8th century AD, it was conquered by the Arabs and soon became an important center of Muslim culture.

In 1220 Samarkand was almost completely destroyed by the Mongol ruler Genghis Khan. It flourished again when Timur-i-Leng (known as Tamerlane in the West) made it the capital of his empire in 1369. As his capital Timur put Samarkand on the world map and much of the architecture visible today was built by him or his descendants. The empire declined in the 15th century, and nomadic Uzbeks (Shaybanids) took Samarkand in 1500. In 1784 the emirate of Bukhara conquered it. The city was taken by Russia in 1868 and once again began to assume importance. From 1924 to 1930, Samarqand was the capital of the Uzbek Soviet Socialist Republic (SSR).

What you can see:

Afrosiab: Located on an irrigated valley of the Zeravshan River in the center of Uzbekistan, area of present Samarkand always ensured favorable conditions for human settlements. As proof, one can freely walk through the ancient ruins of Afrosiab, which are a few hundred meters from the center of the city.

Registan: This is of course the main attraction of Samarkand and is every bit as impressive as its reputation.

Gur-Emir: As a conqueror there are few that are Tamerlane equal, both in territory and lives taken. It is said that he made pyramids out of the skulls of his vanquished. Today one can visit his tomb in the beautifully reconstructed Gur-Emir Mausoleum (1404-1405, 15-17 centuries) and reflect on his life while looking at the largest piece of jade (greenstone) in the world.

Shakh-i-Zinda: Another point of interest is ancient necropolis Shakh-i-Zinda (9-14, 19 centuries)situated on southeastern mound of Afrosiab. This architectural complex consists of 44 tombs in more than 20 mausoleums.

Bibi-Khonym: The restored Mosque Bibi-Khonym (1399-1404) is one of most well known architectural attractions of Central Asia. The Mosque was erected on Timur`s order after his raid of Delhi. This was to be biggest Mosque ever constructed. Until now the Bibi-Khonym Mosque is one of the biggest in the Islamic world.

Khazrat-Khizr: This mosque is one of the ancient edifices of Samarkand was destroyed by Genghis Khan`s hordes. It was rebuilt in 19 century. A beautiful Mosque stands on the elevation at the entrance of town from where their eye wanders over Bibi-Khonym Mosque, the big bazaar and the mountains in the South.

Tomb of Prophet Daniel: Amongst other curiosities in Samarkand is the tomb of the Hebrew Prophet Daniel, which is located in the cemetery section of Afrosiab next to a pleasant stream. For a small fee you may enter the tomb, which contains a burial chamber around 18 meters long. Muslim men will offer prayers while you listen respectfully.

Ulugbek`s telescope: Another curiosity is the telescope of Ulugbek (Timur`s grandson). Only the foundations remain but it is truly extraordinary. Ulugbek was an astronomer, scientist and architect. His scientific and astronomical discoveries greatly advanced knowledge in these fields.

The mosque of Al Buxori located in suburb of Samarkand, in Payerik. Al Buxori was collector of words of prophet Muhamed and publsihed the book about that. He was burried in the place where the mosque is now. The mosque was reconstructed by whole Islamic world, all the brick were delivered from Saudi Arabia, Kuveit. The constructers and artists from all Uzbekistan and Iran were working to reonstruct the mosque.